Lever project - Urania 1 group

borat123

Yes yes KK, I failed primary school maths..... ;D ??? I forgot to clarify that the old one was 1400W, the replacement is 1500W because that's all there is.... Unless a custom job which is $$$.. PS. My 3mm, 0.5 pitch bolts arrived today: 😢 😢 Think they might have shipped me 2.0 or 2.5 by mistake.. I've also been looking around for 1/4" hard drawn copper tube, so I can make up a new fitting for the pstat. Seems to be rarer than hen's teeth.. Could probably use the soft annealed stuff from aircon / refrigeration but I prefer the firmness of the hard drawn.

borat123

Here's an updated wiring diagram. It turns out the element should be wired in parallel.

Koffee_Kosmo

borat123 wrote:

I've also been looking around for 1/4" hard drawn copper tube, so I can make up a new fitting for the pstat. Seems to be rarer than hen's teeth.. Could probably use the soft annealed stuff from aircon / refrigeration but I prefer the firmness of the hard drawn.

You just need to know where to look 😉 http://www.cranecopper.com.au/sizes/astmb88.asp KK

borat123

Thanks KK. Here's another one for you... ;D Anyone know an Australian supplier for chromed flexible gooseneck tubing? I want to use a couple of metres of it to carry the power cord. Something like this:

Koffee_Kosmo

borat123 wrote:

Thanks KK. Here's another one for you... ;D Anyone know an Australian supplier for chromed flexible gooseneck tubing? I want to use a couple of metres of it to carry the power cord. Something like this:

Most of that hose comes from overseas However the best and most economical solution is to use stainless steel braided hose Would a household under-sink type flex water hose work for you Or you can try this link http://www.ferret.com.au/c/Radcoflex-Australia/Corrugated-Metal-Hoses-Hose-Assemblies-and-Wire-Braid-by-Radcoflex-Australia-p22373 KK

borat123

Thanks KK. I'm trying to keep it the same as the original which I'm told was also used on the matching grinder. Here's something similar I found (the middle one): http://www.triflex.com.au/index.php?cPath=118_234_213 Waiting for confirmation on sizes available (limited availability if you're only buying 2 mtrs... 🙁 )

borat123

Today's job is the pressure gauge, and picking up some 1/4" hard drawn copper tubing. The face of the gauge, and by the looks of it the internals are in fantastic condition apart from some surface rust on the pointer needle, and corrosion where it mounts with the brass body at 12 & 3 o'clock. I'm too scared of $*&#! it to attempt removal of the needle myself, so will visit a watchmaker this arvo to have it removed. What do you think is the best way to get the rust & paint off the needle? It's so thin, I dont want to sand it or put it into citric acid. How about an electrolysis bath? Any other ideas?

Koffee_Kosmo

I have done this sort of work on car gauges 1) Place the gauge needle on some double sided tape and attach it to a flat surface You can also use some rust convertor if its on hand 2) Use some fine steel wool and remove the paint along with any rust 3) Use hobby paint (you can also use fluorescent paint) Best results are with a tiny roller however if you have a steady hand a brush is fine Also metal spray paint will also work well If it did not have rust I would have recommended to use a permanent marking pen KK

Ronin

Re chrome flexible tubing - look into exposed shower heads. Looks very much like the one we have in the shower. Re rust removal - I'm with KK. Wire wool available at bunnings works wonders. Different grades, but the finer grade will take longer to remove paint but give you a better finish. Not sure I'd go with the double sided tape tho as it's so thin, you might bend it getting the tape off. Slow and steady

borat123

Thanks guys. I went to the watchmaker but unfortunately the needle is still holding fast.... The watchmaker was very cagey, and after a quick show & tell, handed the tool over and said 'here you do it - I don't want to break it'.... :🙂 I had a couple of goes at it, but its stuck on pretty good. It's a brass 'cap' that is a friction fit onto the shaft. So, I could make another trip into town and visit the vintage watchmaker guys that specialise in restoration, to try and get it off again. Or, find a way to support the pointer and prep it in place, for painting. Re support, I'm thinking of something soft like a bit of material, with maybe cardboard on top (all slid under the needle). What do you think? Re the hard drawn copper - 1/4" doesn't bend into a curve neatly with tool, as the hard drawn 3/8 tubing did. Might have to try it full of sand, or just use the annealed stuff.

Koffee_Kosmo

With care and a steady hand it can be done while on the gauge With regards to pipe bending Sand will work and you can also try heat e.g. boil or heat the pipe in the oven then handle with heat resistant gloves KK

UNM

For the gauge, I was going to suggest just replacing the needle with one from a new generic gauge of same diameter. If you can't remove it though, that isn't going to work 🙁

borat123

I ordered some unsheathed, stainless Ramflex today, from a company that was happy enough to do only 2mtrs..., and they even had the fittings to match 🙂

Koffee_Kosmo

borat123 wrote:

I ordered some unsheathed, stainless Ramflex today, from a company that was happy enough to do only 2mtrs..., and they even had the fittings to match 🙂

Excellent You have to get a win win at some stage ;D KK

borat123

Great service from those guys - I ordered yesterday afternoon and it arrived this morning ;D The tubing is thoughtfully covered in a nice slimy protective film of grease...... Don't know why as it's 304 stainless. I'll have a go at it with dishwashing liquid and see how it cleans up. I also picked up some 1200 emery paper yesterday, so this afternoon's job is to sand back that pointer needle on the pressure gauge. I'm thinking of visiting the local model shop for a small tin of matt black 'metal' paint. Once that's done, I'll go see the vintage watchmaker guy and try to get the pointer off and back on so it's resting at zero again.

Koffee_Kosmo

Just in case? - Make some sort of firm but soft hand held counter balance brace This is to be placed under the needle to counteract your downward force when sanding KK

borat123

And here it is, the mark 1, Urania pressure guage needle pointer sanding jig :o

Koffee_Kosmo

Now that wasn't that hard ? was it ;D I am leaning towards fluorescent paint for night time escapades KK

borat123

Koffee Kosmo wrote:

Now that wasn't that hard ? was it ;D I am leaning towards fluorescent paint for night time escapades KK

It's on my shopping list KK, along with all the 24 carat gold plating... 😉 😉

borat123

I cleaned up the grease off the stainless conduit today. Left it soaking overnight in a old 2ltr milk container full of turps, then soaked and washed in dishwashing liquid. It came out as clean as a whistle and minus the slime... I also bought some micro-surgery style paint brushes, and a pot of matt black enamel model paint from the hobby shop. Then I put the first coat on the pointer needle. It dries fast, and one more coat tomorrow should just about do it; then I just need to get it reset so it points to zero again. Also paid a visit to the machine shop. The rod from inside the 3 way valve has finally been completed, but the square section on the end where the handle screws on, was out by about 45 degrees..... Normally it wouldn't have mattered for a rounded knob, but in this case it's a mini handle that is supposed to sit vertically when in the neutral position. It will be fixed next week. The stripped thread on the valve body has been cut out, a new one made and silver soldered in place. The silver solder now needs to be cleaned up and a new flat surface turned, so the fibre washer will sit nice and flat in the recess and seal nicely. That should be finished next week too, then both items in for chrome plating. Wouldn't you know it, after a couple of months of free time, my work commitments ramp up again just as all the bits and pieces are due back from the platers. Hopefully that stuff is finished early next week so I can get at least a day or two of reassembling things before having to head off interstate for a week or two.

« Previous Page Next Page »